The Artist's City - Of Atoms and Lines

April 28, 25- By Morten Kaaber, Writer

With spring in the air, we take a trip to the Austrian city of Graz with Jelena Donko - otherwise known at Of Atoms and Lines.We asked Jelena about her favourite places to eat, where to spot great art, and the best way to enjoy the warmer months in Austria's second city.

Paper Collective:
Hi Jelena. To start, can you tell me a little bit about Graz, the city you call home. Where is it located in Austria, and what is the geography of the area?

Jelena Donko:
Graz is an old, medieval city nestled in the green province of Styria and around two hours south from the Austrian capital Vienna. The area around the city is characterised by lush hilly landscapes where one can visit one of the many wineries and so called “Buschenschanks”. Despite being the second largest city in Austria (in regards to its population numbers), Graz feels quite small and cosy to me. It’s old, medieval center with narrow streets and old buildings from different historic eras is something that really inspires me on a daily basis. It is a nice sentement to think about how these old structures have stood there for hundreds of years and most probably will do so for centuries to come, and how you are a fairly short part of their existence. It can feel a bit like time travel. I also like the organic, slightly chaotic feel of the old city that has slowly evolved over centuries.
The most iconic landmark of Graz is the “Schloßberg” which is a tree-clad hill and the site of a fortress in the centre of the city. It is a special place because it offers an elevated view and completely different experience of the city.

PC:
We are coming into spring. What do you love about the summertime in Vienna?

Jelena:
I would say that spring and summer is the best time here in Graz. Everything comes to life and the combination of long, sunny days and life on the streets emist a certain feeling of Italian summers. A lot of festivals and markets happen in the spring and most of the restaurants and cafes open their “Gastgarten” - which are basically outdoor seating areas. I simply love how lively the city becomes and I often go for walks with my husband just to inhale that feeling of Styrian “dolce vita”.

PC:
What is your favorite local dish or restaurant?Jelena:
My absolute favourite dish is the Styrian “Backhendl” and a simple mixed salad with pumpkin seed oil. It consists of prepared and spiced portions of chicken which are breaded and crispy deep fried; and served with a lemon wedge on the side. Graz offers quite a few great restaurants which serve this traditional dish, two of them being the “Herzl Stube” and "Der Steirer” in the city centre. But by far the best in my opinion is served at a restaurant around 20 minutes outside of Graz, called “Luderbauer”. It is a laidback inn (we call it “Gasthaus”) on a hill with a beautiful view, which cooks exclusively with organic products from the region.

PC:
Where is your favorite spot within or around the city to escape into nature? What is so special about this place?

Jelena:
A few minutes away from my studio there is the “Burggarten” which is a slightly elevated garden with lots of trees and an orangery. On one part of that garden you have a view onto the “Stadtpark” (our city park) and towards another direction you can see parts of the city and the Schloßberg. The orangery itself is a beautiful architectural structure and it has a stone terraced area where people can linger and relax. On a sunny summer day this is the perfect place to escape because it feels like a little green oasis in the middle of the city.

PC:
What is your favorite art gallery or cultural space in Vienna?

Jelena:
My favourite cultural space in Graz is actually the city itself and especially during a festival called “Klanglicht”. It is a festival that takes place in autumn where various light and sound installations are shown throughout the city. They are placed in different areas, such as public places or on Schloßberg and some of them are projected onto buildings or historic landmarks. I simply love the interactive and immersive nature of the festival and how it connects the urban space of the city with the inhabitants. The festival usually lasts for three to four days and during that time it seems that everyone is out on the streets, exploring the city.

PC:
Tell me a little bit about your studio, the area it is located within Viennaand what you like about this part of the city?

Jelena:I am very fortunate to have my studio in the old city center of Graz with a view onto the old Opera house on one side and a modern building by Zaha Hadid on the other side. The studio is located in the Burggasse which is walking distance to the Stadtpark, Burggarten and the heart of the city, the Hauptplatz. My studio is adjacent to our private living quarters and is located on the third floor of a 200 year old building, where Austria ́s famous writer and poet Peter Rosegger used to live. I absolutely love this area because of the different stories it tells, the mixture of new and old architecture and how it is all connected through time.I love that I am a few minutes away from my favourite art shops and restaurants and I can go for walks in the city if I seek inspiration or have a coffee at my favourite spot called Tribeka if I need a break.